美濃,高雄後花園的閒晃遊
Laid-Back Walks in Meinong, Kaohsiung’s Back Garden

西貢是香港的後花園,
而美濃就是高雄的後花園。
常聽說美濃好山好水好風景,
來過美濃的旅客,通常會說,
不用規劃行程,把步調放慢,
四處閒晃就能發現美濃的美。

Like Sai Kung is known as the back garden of Hong Kong,
Meinong is the one of Kaohsiung.
They say Meinong’s scenery is such a picturesque,
travelers do not even have to plan ahead to explore the region,
and are guaranteed beautiful, laid-back trip to enjoy.


文、攝影/去台灣 TripTaiwan

獅形頂景觀平台飽覽綠油油的美濃平原
Enjoy a view of Meinong on top of the Lion Mountain Observation Deck

美濃距離高雄市區大約 45 分鐘車程,綿延的山腳下是綠油油的田園,客家為主的院落穿梭田間,純樸的民風,濃濃的小鎮風情。清晨黃昏都是美景,5 月時稻田發出金黃色光芒。要觀賞整個美濃平原,海拔 130 米的獅形頂朝天五穀宮,隱藏一個秘密景點,是觀賞美濃平原的最佳地方。在景觀平台找個位置,吹著從平台來的涼風,腳下是一望無際綠油油的田園,看著在田間努力工作的農夫,靜靜地欣賞美濃的美。

Just about 45 minutes by car from downtown Kaohsiung, Meinong is home to a string hills and green, blush fields. Scattered among the endless fields are traditional style Hakka houses radiating a view of a simple country life. Meinong’s beauty is visible all day from dusk till dawn; however one will not want to miss the view of glowing gold rice fields in May. To get the best full view of the whole Meinong plain, one must get to the top of Lion Mountain’s Wugu Temple where a secret observation deck is located. Find a quiet spot on the deck to enjoy the gentle breeze and picturesque view of broad and extensive fields with the hard working farmers working thereon, painting an idyllic perfect picture of Meinong’s beauty.

獅形頂朝天五穀宮
地址: 美濃區獅山里

Lion Mountain Wugu Temple
Address: Shishan St., Meinong Dist., Kaohsiung City 843


每日限量蔬菜汁客家彩色粄條
Limited Daily Supply: Vegetable Dyed Rainbow Hakka Rice Noodles

美濃是傳統的客家小鎮,美食方面也保留許多客家傳統。粄條是客家人小吃之一,有別一般美濃常吃到的白色粄條,「軒味屋」鍾氏夫婦用在地種植的蔬果加入粄條,每日限量做出令人賞心悅目且健康的彩色粄條。水源充足,種出來的米飯也特別好吃,鍾氏夫婦採用美濃在地種植,帶點淡淡的芋頭味的高雄 147 號蓬萊米磨製成米漿,用自家栽種無農藥的紅龍果、地瓜葉、蝶豆花、橙蜜香番茄、自釀紅麴等,打成蔬菜汁加入米漿,做出藍、橙、粉紅、綠等顏色,晶瑩剔透的粄條每日限量手工生產。除了粄條,客家經典菜如客家小炒、薑絲炒大腸、高麗菜封也不能錯過。餐廳內更以復古裝潢擺飾,盛放菜餚之器皿都是當地的手工陶藝,完美把美食跟美濃文化結合。

Meinong is a town deeply rooted in Hakka tradition, so it’s food is an iconic example of Hakka cuisine. Unlike the typically seen white rice noodles enjoyed by many Hakkas, owners of “Syuan Wei House” Mr. and Mrs. Jhong have created a special limited “rainbow” version of the beloved rice noodles.Using taro flavored number 147 Penglai rice produced in Meinong as a base, the couple blend in juices from home grown organic fruits and vegetables such as dragon fruit, sweet potato leaves, butterfly pea flowers, cherry tomatoes, red yeast rice and others. The rice and juice mixture is then colorfully transformed into noodles of blue, orange, pink, green and the other colors, which are available in limited daily quantities. In addition to the rice noodles, do not miss out on other classic Hakka dishes, such as the Hakkanese Stir Fry, Chinese Ginger Chitlins, Slow Boiled Cabbage, just to name a few local favorites! Eating such tasty Hakkanese dishes is even more delightful paired with cute retro decor of Syuan Wei House and the artful display of food using hand crafted pottery utensils made locally in Meinong.

軒味屋
地址:美濃區中山路二段384號
電話:+886 7 681 2820
營業時間: 10:00~14:30
FB:軒味屋彩色粄條

Syuan Wei House
Address:No.384, Sec. 2, Zhongshan Rd., Meinong Dist., Kaohsiung City 84342
Phone:+886 7 681 2820
Business hours: 10:00~14:30
Facebook Link


在文創小店吃在地小農做的冰淇淋
Enjoying Local Ice Cream at the “Wild and Field”

如果要問美濃有什麼好玩,「野上野下」會滔滔不絕興奮地分享他們的秘密景點,希望跟每一個旅客分享美濃的美好。在一般人眼中農村是枯燥、是無聊,但在他們眼中是個「野上野下」的好地方。「野上野下」是客家話四處玩樂、遊手好閒的意思,3 名來自台灣其他縣市的年青人 YOYO、偉志、大頭,選擇留在美濃,以冰淇淋、以書本、以充滿生命力的小店,結合當地小農深度,介紹美濃的鄉土風情。「野上野下」是一間多元的文創小店,門外是一家冰淇淋店,嚴選友善種植的農作物,用當季盛產的蔬果,黑糖、南瓜、桑椹、芝麻等做出健康的冰淇淋。店內售賣他們出版的《野上野下手帖》,也有當地素人工作室、植物染、種子藝術家寄賣的好物,小農的土雞蛋、毛豆、現採高麗菜、新鮮出爐的麵包每天不定期驚喜上架,結合當地農村,讓小農能專注培植出更多自然產物,讓消費者直接能與產地、產物接觸,吃到更健康的食物。他們也不定時舉辦下田體驗「秋冬拔蘿蔔」等田野活動。「野上野下」在美濃客運附近,是背包客、自由行美濃的一定會先拜訪的地方,先吃個用當地農作物做的冰淇淋,一邊跟這位年青人了解美濃有什麼好玩。

Whenever someone asks me for recommendations on what fun is there in Meinong, “Wild and Field” is always a top recommendation from me! The life and scenery of the Taiwanese countryside may be not so interesting to many people hailing from the city, but “Wild and Field” makes it to have attracted even the most difficult visitors without fail. The Hakka meaning of the store name is derived from a Hakkanese proverb meaning “always hanging around.” This charming little store was founded by three young people from different places of Taiwan: YOYO, Wei Jhih and Big Head. They decided to retreat from the busy city life to open this vibrant workshop selling books, local crafts and ice cream, while working with local farmers to display and sell local goods. In the front of the store is an ice cream stand selling different flavors of hand-made ice cream using only the highest quality, in-season ingredients such as black sugar, pumpkin, mulberry, sesame and others to create both tasty and healthy treats! Inside the store, you can find their self-published periodical “The Wild and Field Post”, arts and crafts from local artists and craftsmen, different types of fresh local produce, and freshly baked bread. Acting as a spokesperson and liaison between visitors and the younger generation, “Wild and Field” has become a local hub for Meinong farmers to showcase and sell their healthy organic farm goods. In addition, they also organize various educational events for everyone to join, such as the Winter Carrot Picking Event! Just a short walk from the Meinong Bus Station, the “Wild and Field” has become the must-go destination for every backpacker and passerby to sit back and relax, enjoy ice cream, and get to know the town!

 

野上野下×遛食冰
地址:高雄市美濃區中山路一段14號 (搭乘公車到美濃客運站,往美興街方向直走約100米)
電話:+886 988 158 109
營業時間: 11:00~17:00
FB:野上野下×遛食冰

Wild and Field
Address:No. 14, Section 1, Zhongshan Road, Meinong District, Kaohsiung City, 843
Phone:+886 988 158 109
Business hours: 11:00~17:00
Facebook:Wild and Field


在美濃三合院住一晚 聽著黑膠蟬鳴入睡
B & B at “the Vinyl and Banana Sanheyuan”

「我媽媽是以前電台的播音員,而爺爺是香蕉農夫,兩位都是對於我來說非常重要的人,所以把民宿取名『黑膠與香蕉三合院』。」

“My mother was an anchor person at a radio station and my grandfather a banana farmer. Both of them are very important to me, so I decided to name my bed & breakfast ‘The Vinyl and Banana Sanheyuan’.”

從雜誌攝影師變成民宿老闆的鍾士為,以前到處出差香港、紐約等記錄世界大事,辭掉光環的工作回鄉用房子跟黑膠記錄分享美濃的故事。

The once magazine photographer and now turned as a B & B owner, Jhong Shih Wei (鍾士為), has quitted his past glorious job covering international events in many cities like Hong Kong and New York. He now lives a quiet life in Meinong using vinyl records to share his fond memories of this place’s past.

日據時代,美濃就成為台灣最重要的菸葉產地,高峰時期有 1 千 8 百多棟菸樓,菸樓是美濃特殊的建築。當年種植菸草是美濃人最重要的經濟來源,由於收入不錯,農民都能供養小朋友讀書,所以美濃出了不少碩士博士,有「博士之鄉」之稱。但菸業逐漸沒落,菸樓亦被廢棄。鍾士為老家的菸樓也遭受一樣的命運。對土地的感情、對於老家的愛惜,把爺爺留下來的三合院重新整理,保留曾祖母留下的嫁妝、老傢俱,房間都是舊木製衣架、老紅眠床、衣櫥斗櫃,把將快消失的文化都保留下來。

Since the Japanese occupation era, Meinong has been the main production regions for tobacco leaves. During its peak time, Meinong housed up to 1,800 tobacco barns and has become a unique sight of the region. Meinong’s high volume of tobacco production allowed farmers of time to enjoy financial success and support their children to receive higher education and won the nickname “the homeland of doctorates”. However, due to the decline of tobacco industry, the fortunes and barns also faded away. Jhong Shih Wei’s family tobacco barn also suffered from the same fate of abandonment. Driven with determination by the love for this land and his “Home” Home, Jhong decided to preserve and revamp the old traditional Sanheyuan house his grandfather left to him, along with all the dowry items and furniture passed down from his great grandmother, and to bring the past all back.

民宿擺放著 4 千 5 百張典經黑膠唱片,崔健、鄧麗君、羅大佑、張雨生、Beyond…… 「媽媽以前是播音員,小時候家裡經常有一些很面熟的人,原來是到家接受採訪的大明星。」士為笑說有一次跟同學說有明星來家採訪,然後同學們都好奇來看明星,令媽媽超級尷尬。鍾媽媽的收藏一直放在老家,幾乎幾年沒有動過,黑膠本來不止幾千張,有些都被白蟻蛀壞了。士為笑說:「白蟻很會選擇,都不吃最經典最有價值的,鄧麗君等等的黑膠都還在。」

In the B & B you can find a collection of 4,500 vinyl records of classic pop music artists, such as Cui Jian (崔健), Teresa Teng (鄧麗君), Lo Ta-you (羅大佑), Chang Yu-sheng (張雨生), Beyond… “Being an anchor person for a radio, my mother used to invite many seemingly familiar to me faces to our home to do interviews who turned out to be celebrated singers,” Jhong recalls. He smiles and says that there was one time he told his friends about a celebrity coming to visit and they swarmed his home to see the star in person, causing chaos and awkwardness to his mother during the interview. Much of Jhong’s mother’s collection of vinyl records were kept in the home. There were a lot more than the current amount; unfortunately much of the collection has been ruined by termites. “Interestingly, they never fed on those classic. The most valuable Teresa Teng collection is all still intact!” Jhong jokes.

美濃的美要慢慢細嚼,像這間民宿的音樂一樣。「黑膠與香蕉三合院」的黑膠音樂,在美濃山腳下隨著稻田搖擺。

The beauty of Meinong must be savored delicately, just like listening to the music playing at “The Vinyl and Banana Sanheyuan”, and gently swaying with the rice fields in the breeze.

黑膠與香蕉三合院
地址:高雄美濃區興隆一街112巷34號
電話:+886 912 823 556
FB:美濃山下香蕉與黑膠三合院

The Vinyl and Banana Sanheyuan
Address:No.34, Ln. 112, Xinglong 1st St., Meinong Dist., Kaohsiung City 843
Phone:+886 912 823 556
Facebook link


前往美濃:

| 高雄客運旗美國道10號快捷公車來回高雄左營站至美濃,票價 NT$ 88(HK$23.5),高雄客運官網

| 高鐵左營站、高雄火車站附近有租車店提供包車代駕服務,小車(5 人以下)1 天約 NT$4500 約(HK$1200),大車(9 人以下)約NT$5500(約 HK$ 1480),服務時間 8 至 10 個小時。

Heading to Meinong:

| Kaohsiung Bus Chimei Line Number 10 bus from Kaohsiung Zuoying Station to Meinong. Fair price NT$88 (HK$23.5). Website (Only in Chinese).

| Close by to both HSR Zuoying Station, Kaohsiung Station are auto rental services that offer drivers for hire. Cost per 5 person vehicle is about NT$4500 per day (~HK$1200); 9 person vehicle is about NT$5500 (~HK$1480) (up to 8 – 10 hours of service time per day).

高雄客運美濃站 Kaohsiung Bus Meinong Station