高雄  美濃.旗山-樸實濃厚的鄉村風情 The Towns of Cishan and Meinong in Kaohsiung

圖・文/Taiwan Everything

位於高雄市郊的美濃和旗山,有著和市區截然不同的小鎮風情,純樸又富有文化內涵的在地特色,讓這兩地一直有著為數不少的旅客造訪,來此體會閒適的生活步調,以及台灣傳統鄉間的市街景致。在旗美快捷公車通車後,造訪旗山、美濃兩座傳統小鎮也更為方便。

Located in rural Kaohsiung City, Meinong and Cishan have a small-town air that is a world apart from the big city. Uncomplicated and rich in local culture, the towns have a leisurely pace of life and their traditional street scenes have long attracted a significant number of visitors. The launch of the Cimei Highway Express bus service has also made visiting these two traditional townships more convenient.

旗山有著「香蕉王國」美譽,最適合來此走訪優雅的歷史遺跡-旗山舊火車站,並在巴洛克風的老街裡,感受古建築的歷史韻味,品嘗道地小吃及各式香蕉甜品。

Visitors to Cishan, nicknamed “banana kingdom” for the abundance of bananas grown locally, should be sure to visit the historic Cishan Railway Station, feel the old-time charm of the baroque buildings on the town’s Old Street, and enjoy authentic snacks and various kinds of banana dessert.

來到美濃,則建議沿途欣賞中正湖景和綠油油農田,認識美濃紙傘、體驗擂茶傳統文化,也不要忘記品味道地的客家料理。美濃與旗山,最適合想要放慢腳步,體驗深度之旅的旅人。

For Meinong, be sure to appreciate the scenery of Jhongjheng Lake (also known as Meinong Lake) and the endless lush green fields surrounding it, learn about the town’s oil paper umbrellas, and experience traditional lei tea culture.Also don’t forget to taste traditional Hakka cuisine. When visiting Cishan and Meinong, it’s best to slow down to enjoy an in-depth travel experience.

在美濃與旗山騎自行車

👉️Cycling in Meinong and Cishan

悠閒的鄉間風情與田園景色,讓騎自行車在美濃和旗山成為一種享受,也是放慢腳步體驗山水美景的最好方式。美濃有多條自行車道,初次來此建議嘗試全長約5.4公里的美濃湖環湖自行道,在旅遊中心就可以租借單車。

The rural charm and fetching countryside scenery make cycling in Meinong and Cishan a real joy.This is also the perfect way to unhurriedly enjoy the lovely scenery.Meinong has several bike paths; first-time visitors can begin with the 5.4km bike path around Jhongjheng Lake with bicycles available for hire at the lakeside visitor center.

旗山則建議從可租借單車的旗山轉運站出發,鄰近的糖廠、老街、鼓山公園本來就在步行可達範圍內,騎起單車更是輕鬆愜意,騎累了就到糖廠吃根香蕉冰,或者到鼓山公園內的孔廟,從高處眺望市街風景。

As for Cishan, setting off from Cishan Bus Station where bikes can be hired is recommended; the old sugar refinery, the Old Street, and Gushan Park are all within easy walking distance and can be reached on a bike without even breaking a sweat. If you fancy a rest, stop at the sugar refinery to enjoy a refreshing banana ice or take in a bird’s-eye view of the town from Confucius Temple in Gushan Park.

⭐️ 中正湖旅遊服務中心

  • 地址: 高雄市美濃鎮民權路
  • 時間: 9:00-18:00
  • 電話:(07)681-2433

⭐️ Jhongjheng Lake Visitor Center (中正湖旅遊服務中心)

  • Add: Mincyuan Rd., Meinong Township, Kaohsiung City(高雄市美濃鎮民權路)
  • Hours: 9am ~ 6pm
  • Tel: +886-7-681-2433

美濃油紙傘與客家擂茶

👉️Meinong – Oil-Paper Umbrellas and Hakka Lei Tea

由於世居於此的客家人眾多,因此來到美濃能很明顯地感受到這裡的客家文化氣息,最鮮明的就是當地的油紙傘產業,以及客家擂茶。

As a large proportion of the population of Meinong are Hakka people, the township has a distinct air of Hakka culture, the most obvious aspects of which are the local oil-paper umbrella industry and Hakka lei tea.

油紙傘為美濃特有的客家文化象徵,除了實用性的遮風避雨外,因為客家話中「油紙」諧音為「有子」,因此代表著傳宗接代、家族興盛的祝福意味。

Oil-paper umbrellas are a symbol of Hakka culture and are unique to Meinong. As well as being practically useful by providing protection against sun, wind, and rain they also are auspicious objects.Since oil paper in the Hakka language sounds like “to have a son” the umbrellas also represent having a son who carries on the family name and family prosperity.

在美濃的廣進勝紙傘、原鄉緣紙傘文化村、美濃民俗村,都可以體驗油紙傘的DIY,帶回親手創作的紙傘留念,來到美麗的美濃小鎮千萬不能錯過。

Oil-paper umbrella DIY activities are offered at Kuang Chin Sheng Oil Paper Umbrellas, Yuan Siang Yuan Cultural Village, and Meinong Folk Village. When visiting this quaint town, don’t miss out on the chance to take away a beautiful oil-paper umbrella made with your own hands as a souvenir!

⭐️ 廣進勝紙傘(Kuang Chin Sheng Oil Paper Umbrellas

  • 地址: 高雄市美濃鎮民權路47號
  • 時間: 9:00-17:00
  • 電話:(07)681-3247

⭐️ Kuang Chin Sheng Oil Paper Umbrellas (廣進勝紙傘)

  • Add: No. 47, Mincyuan Rd., Meinong Township, Kaohsiung City(高雄市美濃鎮民權路47號)
  • Hours: 9am ~ 5pm
  • Tel: +886-7-681-3247

⭐️ 原鄉緣紙傘文化村(Yuan Siang Yuan Cultural Village

  • 地址: 高雄市美濃區中興路一段147號
  • 時間: 平日9:00-17:30、週末8:30-18:00
  • 電話:(07)681-0888

⭐️ Yuan Siang Yuan Cultural Village (原鄉緣紙傘文化村)

  • Add: No. 147, Sec. 1, Jhongsing Rd., Meinong District, Kaohsiung City(高雄市美濃區中興路一段147號)
  • Hours: Weekdays 9am ~ 5:30pm; weekends 8:30am ~ 6pm
  • Tel: +886-7-681-0888

⭐️ 美濃民俗村

  • 地址: 高雄市美濃區中山路二段421巷80號
  • 時間: 平日8:30-17:00、週末8:00-18:00
  • 電話: (07) 681-7508

⭐️ Meinong Folk Village (美濃民俗村)

  • Add: No. 80, Ln. 421, Sec. 2, Jhongshan Rd., Meinong District, Kaohsiung City(高雄市美濃區中山路二段421巷80號)
  • Hours: Weekdays 8:30am ~ 5pm; weekends 8am ~ 6pm
  • Tel: +886-7-681-7508

擂茶則是客家人的飲食文化,大多是將花生、芝麻、玄米等材料在缽中磨碎,再加入茶粉後沖水飲用,過去被客家人視為招待貴賓的點心,如今則是來到客庄一定少不了的特色美食。販售擂茶的茶店幾乎都會提供顧客親手DIY的機會,是相當有趣的體驗。

Lei tea has an important place in Hakka food culture; it is made by grinding peanuts, sesame seeds, brown rice, and other ingredients, then adding tea powder and, finally, hot water. This used to be a snack that Hakka people served to honored guests in days gone by, however, today it’s a special dish that most visitors to a Hakka settlement should try. Stores that sell lei tea almost all offer an opportunity to make it DIY style, which is a fun experience.

⭐️ 美濃驛棧擂茶舖

  • 地址: 高雄市美濃區成功路142號
  • 時間: 10:00-18:00
  • 電話:(07)681-8475

⭐️ Meinong Yi Jhan Lei Tea Shop (美濃驛棧擂茶舖)

  • Add: No. 142, Chenggong Rd., Meinong Township, Kaohsiung City(高雄市美濃區成功路142號)
  • Hours: 10am ~ 6pm
  • Tel: +886-7-681-8475

除了擂茶外,另一樣不能錯過的客家美食就是粄條了,美濃的粄條店相當多,其中在地35年的秀宜粄條是深受美濃人和遊客喜愛的老店,無論乾拌、炒、湯都風味十足,值得一試。

Another Hakka food that should not be missed is bantiao flat rice noodles; Meinong has many flat-rice-noodle eateries, one popular eatery is Siou Yi Bantiao Restaurant, in business for 35 years and very popular with both locals and visitors. Flat rice noodles are flavorful whether they are eaten dry, stir-fried or in a soup, and well worth trying.

⭐️ 秀宜粄條

  • 地址: 高雄市美濃區美興街18號
  • 時間:平日9:00-18:30、週末8:00-20:00
  • 電話:(07)682-0826

⭐️Siou Yi Bantiao Restaurant

  • Add: No. 18, Meinong St., Meinong Township, Kaohsiung City(高雄市美濃區美興街18號)
  • Hours: Weekdays 9am ~ 6:30pm; weekends 8am ~ 8pm
  • Tel: +886-7-682-0826

旗山-歷史街道漫步

👉️Cishan – Strolling Along a Historic Street

旗山老街是早期因製糖業而興盛發展起的市街。當地老街有著以石塊堆砌而成的圓拱亭仔腳為主要特色,是目前台灣唯一的石拱圈建築群,也是與台灣其他地方老街最大的不同處。

Cishan Old Street became prosperous in earlier times due to the sugar industry. The most notable feature of the Old Street is the stone arcades of the buildings, a rare sight in Taiwan.This feature is the biggest difference between this and other old streets on the island.

在歷經時代的變化和都市更新後,旗山老街雖然已無法看到完整的昔日建築景觀,但依稀能從街上的紅磚建築,以及殘留的建築立面,體會老街餘留的韻味和風情。老街上很適合隨意漫步,沿途的旗山舊車站、天后宮、武德殿等都是具有歷史風情的特色建築。

After the passage of time and urban renewal, the architectural scenes are no longer how they were originally but the red-brick buildings and the surviving façades provide a clue to how the town looked in its heyday and gives the street a certain nostalgic charm. Cishan Old Street is suited for casual wandering; along the way, the old Cishan Railway Station, Tianhou Temple, Wude Temple, and many buildings with historic charm, will be passed.

老街地標的旗山舊車站建於1911年,車站有著八角斜頂尖塔的外觀,造型十分典雅。早期是糖業鐵路「旗尾線」中的一站,是當時最重要的客貨運輸樞紐。

The main landmark on Cishan Old Street is Cishan Railway Station, built in 1911. It has an elegant look and is special for its octagonal shape. In the past it was one of the stations on the Ciwei Line, used by the sugar industry; it was the region’s most important passenger and freight hub.

為保留旗山糖業歷史痕跡,這個旗尾線唯一僅存的「旗山車站」,被重新打造成「糖鐵故事館」,延續旗山的歷史記憶。旅客可至館內透過豐富史料了解旗山歷史和產業變遷,還能一睹昔日的糖廠蒸氣火車頭。

To preserve the historic traces of the local sugar industry, Cishan Railway Station, the only surviving station on the Ciwei Line, has been transformed into the Sugar Railway Story House to help keep memories of old Cishan alive. Visitors can learn about the town’s history and the changes in local industry through the plentiful historical materials the Story House holds; there is also a sugar industry steam locomotive on display.

⭐️ 旗山舊車站-糖鐵故事館

  • 地址: 高雄市旗山區中山路1號
  • 時間: 平日10:00-18:00、週末10:00-19:00、週二休館
  • 電話:(07)662-1228

⭐️ Cishan Old Railway Station/Sugar Railway Story House (旗山舊車站糖鐵故事館)

  • Add: No. 1, Jhongshan Rd., Cishan District, Kaohsiung City(高雄市旗山區中山路1號)
  • Hours: Weekdays 10am ~ 6pm; weekends 10am ~ 7pm; closed on Tuesday
  • Tel: +886-7-662-1228

旗山盛產香蕉,因此來此別忘了品嘗各種香蕉商品,尤其在經年豔陽高照的南台灣,沒有比來上一碗香蕉冰更讓人全身舒暢的了,其它像是香蕉蛋糕、香蕉蛋捲等,也都是很受歡迎的熱門伴手禮。

As Cishan is a major banana growing center, it’s not surprising that various banana products can be enjoyed here. Nothing beats a bowl of banana ice to cool you down after spending time under the scorching southern Taiwan sun; banana cake and banana egg roll are also very popular gifts that visitors take back from Cishan for family and friends.

⭐️ 吉美香蕉蛋糕

  • 地址: 高雄市旗山區中山路62號
  • 時間: 8:00-21:00
  • 電話:(07)661-5006

⭐️ Chimei Bread (吉美香蕉蛋糕)

  • Add: No. 62, Jhongshan Rd., Cishan District, Kaohsiung City(高雄市旗山區中山路62號)
  • Hours: 8am ~ 9pm
  • Tel: +886-7-661-5006

⭐️ 旗山枝仔冰城

  • 地址: 高雄市旗山區中山路109號
  • 時間: 平日9:30-22:30、週末9:00-23:00
  • 電話: (07)661-2066

⭐️ Ki A Peng Sian (旗山枝仔冰城)

  • Add: No. 109, Jhongshan Rd., Cishan District, Kaohsiung City(高雄市旗山區中山路109號)
  • Hours: Weekdays 9:30am ~ 10:30pm, weekends 9am ~ 11pm
  • Tel: +886-7-661-2066

交通方式 – 旗美國道號快捷公車Cimei Highway Express

前往美濃與旗山地區,建議最快速便捷的方式就是搭乘高雄客運的旗美國道快捷公車。搭車地點就在高鐵左營站(高雄捷運左營站)外的4號乘車處,班次間隔20~40分,車程約40分鐘可以到達旗山,從旗山再前往美濃則約需20分。旗山的下車站為「旗山南站」,美濃則是在「美濃(美濃老街)站」下車。要特別注意的是,時刻表的各班次有分為左營-旗山路線,以及左營-旗山-美濃路線。

The quickest and most convenient way to get to Cishan and Meinong is with the Cimei Highway Express service provided by Kaohsiung Bus Co. Buses depart from the No. 4 bus stop outside Taiwan High Speed Rail’s Zuoying Station (Kaohsiung MRT’s Zuoying Station). There are services every 20-40 minutes and the journey to Cishan takes around 40 minutes; around 20 minutes is required for the journey from Cishan to Meinong. Get off at Cishan South Stop in Cishan and Meinong (Old Street) Stop in Meinong. It should be noted that routes on the timetable are divided between Zuoying-Cishan and Zuoying-Cishan-Meinong.

※票價(Tickets:):

除付現外,乘車可刷一卡通、悠遊卡等電子票證

As well as using cash, stored value cards including iPass and EasyCard can be used to pay for a ride.

※巴士運行時間(高鐵站出發時間):平日6:30-23:00,假日8:20-20:50

Bus Departure Times (from HSR Zuoying Station):Weekdays 6:30am~11pm; Holidays 8:20am~8:50pm

⭐️ 旗山轉運站

  • 地址: 高雄市旗山區大同街23號
  • 電話:(07)661-2053

⭐️ Cishan Transit Station(旗山轉運站)

  • Add: No. 23, Datong Street, Qishan District(高雄市旗山區大同街23號)
  • Tel: +886-7-661-2053