帶著挑剔的 Good Eye,認識台北百年老城區+啤酒文化風潮

透過《GOOD EYE 台北挑剔指南


West Side Route: Dadaocheng, Ximending, and Monga (Wanhua) Area

The vigorous and pioneering old part of town

In Taipei, the vestiges of history and experiences the glory of former days and local sentiments can all be seen on the west side. A century ago, Monga and Dadaocheng were the most prosperous ports in all of Taiwan. Ximending, while Taiwan was under Japanese rule, was developed into a fashionable entertainment area.


As time elapsed, the center of Taipei’s city development shifted to the east and as a result, the west side gradually declined. Still, its century-long cultural significance and profundity cannot be replaced and at the slightest spark, it will ignite once again.

Incense lit by pious believers is ever-burning at Longshan Temple; Monga was and still is home to the rawest vitality of the common people; Dadaocheng, saturated with a human touch, has recently attracted creators and brands who share similar values. Here, the new encounters the old, amalgamating into new life.


I believe the only path to experiencing the true nature and sentiments of Taipei is to go to the west.


A day’s journey

-9:00        Visit the row of old eateries in front Tsu Sheng Temple for good, straightforward food. Savor a bowl of meat congee or pork knuckle with noodles under banyan trees  and enjoy a leisurely Chinese style breakfast known only to the people of Taipei.

-9:00        「慈聖宮」前的一排老店是城裡最真心不騙的小吃攤,坐在榕樹下吃碗肉粥或豬腳麵線,享用老台北人才懂得享受的愜意中式早餐。

-10:00      Head to the century-old tea shops such as Lin Hua Tai or Lin Mao Sen for good teas that make for good gifts.

-10:00      吃完散步去百年老店「林華泰茶行」或「林茂森茶行」買些好茶當伴手禮。

-11:00      Start from the northern end of Dihua Street and make your way down. Visit Li Ting Xiang, a longstanding pastry shop, and stop by the renowned mullet roe specialty shop, Li Ri Sheng. Then check out new shops like Dadaocheng 259,  who sells local ingredients, lifestyle brand Mogu, and creators’ base URS155 Tuan Yuan.

-11:00      由迪化街北端逛起:有老字號糕餅店「李亭香」、烏魚子名店「李日勝」;新進駐的店家則有販售在地食材的「大稻埕259」、生活風格品牌「蘑菇」與創作者基地「URS155 團圓大稻埕」等。

-12:30      Go to Peacock, a restaurant located in ArtYard that incorporates Taiwanese ingredients into Eurasia cuisine, or walk to Yongle Market and find a variety of eateries in the area. I recommend Yongle Rice Paste Noodle and Fried Mackerel Soup located on Minyue Street.

-12:30      在「聯藝程」裡以台灣食材入味的歐亞料理「孔雀」用餐,或走到永樂市場附近享用各式小吃,私心推薦「永樂米苔目」與民樂街上的「紅燒土托魚羹」。

-14:00       Single or not, come to Xia Hai City God Temple and pray to Yue Lao for a happy love life. Work your way through the shops, tea houses, and cafes in the ArtYard buildings then head to inBlooom for printed fabric souvenirs.

-14:00       不管單身與否,都來「霞海城隍廟」跟月老祈求感情順利吧!接著穿梭各式小店、茶館、咖啡館進駐的「民藝埕」、「眾藝埕」與「小藝埕」,再去「印花樂」採買印花布紀念品。

-16:00      If you enjoy independent publications, head straight to Shimokitazawa Generations. If you prefer to experience the charm of old streets, hang around the area; there is much that awaits you.

-16:00      喜愛獨立刊物的你請直接搭車前往「下北沢世代」,更愛老街風情的朋友這裡還有許多老建築和小店值得探險。


-17:30       If all is well in your life, come to Longshan Temple and pray that you are kept safe; if not, pray to Guanyin for a fortune stick that may offer you guidance.

-17:30      沒事來「龍山寺」拜拜保平安,有事可跟觀音菩薩求籤解惑。

-18:30      For dinner, explore the many traditional eateries along the old Monga streets, such as Su Family’s Meat Ball and Savory Rice Cake and Double Joys Squid Paste Soup. Conclude your meal with a bowl of sweet fruit with shaved ice at Longdu Ice Dessert Parlor.

-18:30      晚餐就在艋舺老街吃傳統小吃,「蘇家肉圓油粿」、「兩喜號魷魚羹」等任君挑選,吃完到「龍都冰果室」來碗甜蜜水果冰。

-19:30      Stroll to Guiyang Street, try the nostalgic flavors of Yongfu Ice Cream then head to the Nishi Hongan-ji Temple plaza and visit Rinbansyo for some Taiwanese herbal tea that will warm the cockles of your heart.

-19:30      散步到貴陽街,吃一球古早味的「永富冰淇淋」,繼續前往西本願寺廣場,在「八拾捌茶」喝杯暖心的台灣花茶。

-20:30      Once a market during the Japanese Ruling Era, the historic site of Ximen Red House is now an art and cultural space with many shops on the first floor. Behind Red House is a famous outdoor gay bar area.

-20:30      日治時期曾是庶民市場的古蹟「西門紅樓」,如今成為文創基地,一樓商場有許多新興品牌進駐,紅樓後方是著名的同志露天酒吧區。

-22:00      Make the most of your day by going to Woolloomooloo’s Ximen branch or Mikkeller Taiwan, located in an old building in Dadaocheng. For the free-spirited ones, find a Beer Cargo or buy a bottle of Taiwan beer to enjoy on a bridge and reflect upon your day’s journey as the cars go by.

-22:00      去「Woolloomooloo」西門店或隱身大稻埕老屋的「Mikkeller Taiwan」續攤;更free style一點的推薦啤酒攤車「Beer Cargo」,或買瓶台啤去天橋上開喝,望著中華路車流回味今日的新舊台北之旅。


-This route covers a lot of ground so renting a uBike is a good option.
-There are many old buildings and stories along the way worthy of exploring. Taipei Walking Tour offers an in depth guided walking tour. For more information visit http://www.taipei-walkingtour.tw/
-In recent years, Dadaocheng started hosting a firework festival on Chinese Valentine’s (the seventh day on the seventh lunar month). Be sure to check it out if you’re around!

-沿途有許多老建築與故事值得探索,若想更深入了解可參加Taipei Walking Tour固定舉行的大稻埕導覽。http://www.taipei-walkingtour.tw/

Catch the wave of Taiwanese craft beer

Craft beer is the equivalent of indie music in the beer world. If you want an authentic taste of Taiwan, don’t miss out on Taiwanese craft beer. Lucky for beer lovers , the majority of Taiwan’s famous breweries happen to be located around Taipei; there’s nothing more satisfying than easy access to freshly brewed craft beer.

Of Taiwan’s more well-known craft beer brands, I highly recommend North Taiwan Beer’s lychee beer and Le Ble d’Or’s classic honey beer, which was awarded first place in the World Beer Cup. Of the younger brands, I have to mention Taiwan Head Brewers, famed for infusing craft beer with Taiwanese tea; their “Guyu” tea ale is brewed with Longjing Oolong and “Liqiu” is brewed with Oriental Beauty tea. Also, Alchemist is a brand of beer worth try because they focus on using local ingredients.

Other notable craft brands, such as Zhang Men Brewing, Sambar Brewing, Taihu Brewing, Jim & Dad’s Brew Company, No. 23 Brewing, and 55th Street Craft Beer, can be found on the right page list of recommendations. It is also recommended that you follow fan pages to get news of upcoming beer festivals and other fun events.


台灣最廣為人知的精釀品牌中,首推以《荔枝啤酒》為其招牌的「北台灣麥酒」;另一老牌「金色三麥」的經典蜂蜜啤酒則在 World Beer Cup 勇奪冠軍。年輕品牌中,不得不提以茶入酒的「啤酒頭釀造」,其《穀雨》以龍井烏龍茶、《立秋》則以東方美人茶入酒,同時享受台灣茶跟啤酒的好滋味;而堅持釀造原料必須盡量來自於台灣農業的「禾餘麥酒」也相當值得一試。





(本文摘自《GOOD EYE 台北挑剔指南:第一本讓世界認識台北的中英文風格旅遊書》郭佩伶 Pei-Ling Guo 等著,時報出版)